When thinking about the gold standard of suits, the top two countries that are the leaders in the world’s best construction of bespoke suits are the British and the Italians. This is because both countries have exceptional techniques that have been passed down from-generation-to-generation. Due to these traditions and world-class tailoring, the Italians and British have created suits that fit the personalities of men that are as opposite as they are. Each country lends a different persona to the suits they create: The British are more traditional and conservative, whereas the Italians are cool, comfortable, and individualistic with a touch of flair. But no matter which style persona you take, both suit styles will make you feel like you can grace the cover of a GQ Magazine.

The British Influence – Puffy & Posh

The British are known for their deep traditional values, the aristocracy, and the monarchy, so it’s not surprising that much of the British suit styles are influenced by the wealthy upper class, landed gentry, and military officers. Strict and conservative social norms throughout the centuries have greatly influenced what the men of each era wore. The British man is known for his impeccable dress but must also blend in with his comrades. The “stiff-upper lip” persona is evident in the British suit style, where tradition and a man’s sense-of-duty to family and country are of the utmost importance. As such, his suit style portrayed an air of tradition and order.

The Italian Influence – Athletic & Flashy

Just like the warm, breezy, and colorful climate of the Mediterranean, Italians are more easy-going and have a passion for life and love. The same is reflected in the style of their suits, especially the cuts and fabrics. Due to the warm weather, Handmade Italian Suits are lightweight and the fabrics are breathable and soft. They don’t conform but, rather, showcase each man’s individual style.

What’s your suit persona – British or Italian?

The British Gentleman

If you’re more conservative and traditional, then you probably prefer to wear a British suit. You like to dress correctly, and you make sure that all elements of your suit are presented with precision. You want to come across as a true gentleman with a sophisticated attitude. You prefer durable fabric and a practical look. The colors you choose are neutral and earthy, and tend to be on the gray and monotoned scale, just like the rainy and overcast climate of the UK.

The Italian Casanova

You want to feel like, and be seen as, an attractive man while showing your flair for life. You follow the latest fashions trends but also want to stand out and make a statement. You like to present yourself as chic, relaxed, and cool, and like to be comfortable but stylish. Your suit colors are vibrant and free like the warm Mediterranean climate of Italy. Whether you’re sipping an espresso at a café or are going out for a night on the town, you always want to turn heads and make a lasting impression.

What’s your suit fit – British or Italian?

The British Suit Style

The British suit is cut closer to the body and has a narrower and defined shoulder with higher armholes. Coats can be single or double-breasted. The fabric is heavier, stiffer, and there’s more padding added to the shoulders. Trousers generally have a high waist and with two to three pleats that offer shape. Although the suits are fairly fitted, they are not boxy or too slim. They contour and precisely fit each body type.

The Italian Suit Style

When thinking about the Italian suit, it’s all about setting a trend and making an impression. The cut tends to be slim and sleek, and offers a modern tone. The fabric is lighter, there’s less padding, and the jackets have two vents. They’re also shorter and tight-fitting, and have a predominant V-shape. Trousers have a tapered waist, and hips are more fitted to the body. Italian style is categorized by Roman, Neapolitan, and Milanese influence.

What’s the Franco Fit?

The Franco Fit is a garment, shirt, trouser, or jacket that is perfectly fitted to your body shape. It conforms to your body – when you wear a jacket or a trouser, you’re not wearing someone else’s wardrobe – you own it, it belongs to you, it was made specifically for your body shape and type. When you purchase anything at Franco Uomo—whether it’s off-the- rack or fully custom—we make sure to fit that garment to your body shape, size, and type. It’s the fit guarantee.

Is the Franco Fit influenced by the British or Italian style?

The Franco Fit isn’t inspired by both. This is because we look at your body shape, and based on your shape, we make sure the suit is fitted accordingly. For example, if a customer has square shoulders, we’re not going to give him a British-inspired shoulder fit. We’re going to give him a Napoleon-inspired shoulder fit—it’s thinner and it doesn’t raise the shoulder higher. On the other hand, if a customer has a sloping shoulder, we’ll give him more of a British look. The style is dictated based on the customer’s body shape, and we take that into consideration. We put all those options on the table for our customers, we educate them, and we make a collective decision based on their personal needs.

What shoulder type does Franco Uomo recommend for their customers?

There are different types of shoulder styles on the market. Here are the few we use at Franco Uomo:

• The Natural Shoulder - also known as ‘The American Shoulder’—it follows the natural slope of the shoulder but has padding for a structured look.

• The High Sleeve - also known as the ‘Rope Shoulder’—the sleeve construction is slightly raised in relation to the shoulder, which forms a ridge. The higher the sleeve, the more striking the shoulder line appears.

• The Neapolitan Shoulder - identical to the Italian shoulder—relaxed and without an air of formality or heaviness—but has puckering or slight shirring.

Our recommendation depends on what the customer wants, and the customer’s body dictates the type of shoulder he has. For example, if the customer has a sloping shoulder, a Neapolitan shoulder wouldn’t be right for him because it wouldn’t be as flattering to his shoulder shape and size, so we would recommend a high sleeve shoulder (rope shoulder) to give him the height that would complement his shoulder breadth. On the other hand, if someone has a square shoulder, we wouldn’t recommend a high sleeve shoulder; we would recommend a Neapolitan shoulder.

Written By Sophia Papadopoulos